Well Pump Linear Current Booster Photos
Ron Castle's Simple Pump
We drilled our water well at
in Franklin County, Tennessee in April 2011 and installed our Simple Pump as a hand pump
initially. The installation took two of us an hour and
twenty minutes to put the pump at 91.5 feet in a 100 foot
Simple Pump Initially Installed As A Hand Pump
The motorized head to operate the pump as
a solar well pump was added in May 2011 so that the block
layers working on our new off grid house construction could
pump house is now completed and the installation of the
solar pump powered by a 210 watt Evergreen 12 volt solar
panel and a linear current booster is finished.
The pump house is 8 x 12 feet with a 10
foot roof on the high side for
future maintenance of the Simple Pump cylinder which is
10 sections of 9 foot Schedule 120 PVC pipe.
The 210 watt panel is mounted to the
block wall on T-hinges using Tapcon
concrete anchors. This allows an easy panel angle
change from 20 degrees
in the summer to 50 degrees in the winter. To the left
is a Midnite Solar
combiner box with a 20 amp breaker and Delta lightning
The conduit through the wall brings the
current from the combiner box
to a 4 connection terminal strip. The positive is connected
to the red linear
current booster wire, negative is connected to black.
From the linear
current booster the white wire is connected to the pump
blue to negative. The Simple Pump has a built in
switch with fuse so
no further overcurrent protection is required. Some
folks might want to
also use a DC rated breaker. The breaker rating depend
on the solar panel
being connected. The
lower pipe on the wall
goes to fill the storage tank.
The upper pipe is being
stored for the
addition of a outside frost-proof faucet.
I added a second terminal strip and a 30
amp relay to handle the amp
requirements of the Simple Pump motor so that I could use an
mercury free float switch to turn the pump on and off
according to the
water level in the tank. See our
relay wiring for off grid solar
page for a video and instructions on how to wire a relay.
In October 2012 we changed out the Simple
Pump Scotch yoke drive for the new linear bearing link
drive, rewired the pump controls to use a signal wire from
the linear current booster rather than an external relay,
added a float switch bypass switch so the pump can be
operated when the storage tank is full, and added LED
lighting to the pump house. Please watch the video to
see all the changes and how the system works.
Gentlemen take note: A
platform will be built over the tank because sleeping
in the pump house will be warmer than sleeping in the dog
house during the winter.
No, we don't have a leak. The drain
line to the right was used to fill a
water bottle. The far line goes out through the
floor to a tee which splits
one to the house and one to the cottage and both of those
lines have their
off valve. If you note the water level in the tank,
450 gallons on September 28 from when the sun first created
to start the pump motor until 12:20 PM. I was not
started. My guess is about 9:30 AM.
that we are fully operational I will be recording some
information that will be useful regarding specific
performance under specific conditions. This will help
us to make better recommendations regarding linear current
booster pumping versus batteries when water volume per day
In May 2014 we added a second pump to the
well, a SHURflo 9300 submersible
pump which operates from a 24 volt battery bank. The
panel on the left is a
120 watt 72 cell 24 volt panel a
SolarLand SLP120-24U. The submersible is a
backup to the Simple Pump and is mainly used for irrigating
the raised garden
beds that are down the hill from where this photo is taken.
From left to right, Toby the solar dog
(behind the end of the box), Bandit the
aged Border Collie, granddaughter Sierrra and Lady the
are blooming, won't be long!